So you want to hear about a hidden gem, huh?
An adventurous hidden gem too?
OK try this . . .
Last week I walked from the top of The Pakhuis Pass (just below the triplet peaks of Faith, Hope and Charity) to the remote settlement of Heuningvlei, two or so hours outside of Cape Town’s main metropolitan area. The route I took followed the original road which the famous road-builder Thomas Baines completed in 1877. This certainly qualifies as “hidden” because although many people drive past it, very few know of its existence and it qualifies as a gem on many scores: the walk is spectacular, the flowers are mind-boggling, the animal life is fascinating, the historical road is amazing and the destination is not only quaint, but might just be the most remote and smallest settlement in the country.
The road contorted itself through a surreal gallery of towering wind-sculpted rocks and past gurgling streams until I peeked over the Groenkop saddle and saw the settlement of Heuningvlei dozing two kilometers away in the valley below.
I scrambled down the hill past beautiful, impossibly-delicate pink Watsonias and brilliant Kniphoffias into the sleepy hamlet. The entire population of Heuningvlei consists of 25 families who live in charming cottages, some of which were constructed in 1820. In spite of its small size and remote location the village has electricity and a pay-phone and I can only surmise that the satellite dishes are a more recent addition since 1820!
At 3 pm when the air temperature had plummeted to a respectable and tolerable 36*C I was lamenting my return walk of 12 km (uphill this time). Someone politely reminded me that if I were to use the contemporary vehicle access road, my journey would be 64 km long! This is another remarkable feature of this village-lost-in-time. Although as the crow flies, it is only about 15 km from the town of Clanwilliam, by road it is 84 km away from the nearest shop.
As I trudged back toward the road which Thomas Baines so skillfully engineered 130 years ago I was galvanized by a thicket of one of my favourite proteas – The Rocket Pincushion (Leucospermum reflexum). As I stopped to appreciate this special plant with the Krakadouw Peak in the background I remembered that this particular thicket was the first ever specimen of the species described by botanists. Energized by this botanical indulgence I made short work of the lovely walk back.
If you are looking for a truly unique holiday experience walk, click here for ‘Racontours‘, the tours department of the world-renowned Last Word group of hotels.
Candice focuses on travel, surfing, running, dark chocolate and uncovering gems hidden in the Cape outdoors.
Steve Bolnick is recognized as one of southern Africa’s outstanding safari guides. He grew-up with a deep love for the African bush and has spent the past 29 years living and guiding in southern Africa.
Lisa Griggs writes about the hidden vineyards and the undiscovered cultivars in the Western Cape.
Nicky Coenen looks for the secret hideaways and hidden gems in Cape Town and surrounds.
Steve Robertson tracks the off the beaten track action happening around Cape Town.
Fred Roed looks for the undiscovered coffee spots in the Western Cape and rates them.
Peter has worked in the wine and spirits industry for over 40 years and is an appreciator of fine things.
One Comment
Just a small but significant correction to the wonderful December 3, 2008 article by By steveb in Adventure.
The builder of the Pakhuis pass was Thomas Charles John Bain 1830-1893. not Baines (confusingly also Thomas). John Thomas Baines (1820-1875) was a Victorian artist and traveller through Africa. They are often confused.